ENGLAND’S HISTORIC GARDENS

NYMANS IN WEST SUSSEX

Home of the Messel family since 1890, Nymans is now one of the vast accumulation of holdings owned by the National Trust.

As we saunter along the ‘Lime Walk’ on a spring day, it seems as if Nymans is sleeping. Lowering clouds give the garden and the burnt-out shell of the manor house a haunted appearance. On a lawn, smooth as a bowling green, the spiky silhouette of a solitary Monkey Puzzle tree seems to pierce the clouds.

Along a winding path, flowering camellias in dense clumps grow beside a cherry tree heavy with blossom. Snowy white doves flutter overhead and alight on a dovecot to preen and twitter. Around us the grass is awash with daffodils and narcissi.

In the 'Wall Garden' liquid wisps trickle from the grotesque carved faces adorning the overflowing Verona marble fountain. With pouting lips and bulbous eyes, the faces have a strange but fascinating attraction.

In June the ‘Rose Garden’ will be transformed into a perfumed haven of old-fashioned roses collected over centuries from English, French and Italian gardens. At their peak their lush blossoms tumble from pillars, pergolas and arbors.

As the seasons change in the ‘Wall Garden’, the ‘Summer Border’ steals the show. Jewel-coloured dahlias, goldenrod, black-eyed Susan and globe flowers line the paths that lead up to the fountain and topiary sculptures.

For those who prefer a more natural garden there is 'The Rough'. This area as well as others was seriously damaged during the Great Storm of 1987. Four hundred and eighty six trees fell to the storm in the path of hurricane force winds that rampaged through Nymans and other English gardens. For decades these sheltered wild places had known only gentle rains and the occasional brisk wind.

But to every cloud there is a silver lining. For 200 years the woodland at Nymans had grown unchecked. The devastation of the storm allowed light and sun to penetrate those dark and shaded places beneath overgrown trees, and the forest soaked it in and flourished.

There is much to see in Nymans garden. ‘The Pinetum’, almost completely destroyed in the Great Storm but since replanted with maples, conifers and birch, lives again. The 'Heather Garden', designed and planted in the early 1900s by Ludwig Messel was one of the first of its kind in England. And the 'Knot Garden', in the style of the Tudors, is a planting of tall stately lupines and delphiniums with roses edged with box.

NYMANS GARDEN, Handcross, nr. Haywards Heath, West Sussex RH17 6EB. Telephone: 011 44 444 405250. Owned by the National Trust this garden is open weekdays, March - October from 11 am – 6 pm, weekends in January and February, 11 am - 4 pm.

Inverary Castle, seat of the Dukes of Argyll

HAUNTED CASTLES, CROWS AND GHOSTS – SCOTLAND AND ITS EERIE PAST


As we approached Tulloch Castle black crows swept in a coordinated mass around the 13th century castle tower shrieking like banshees pursued by the devil. Tulloch Castle’s ghost is a young woman known as the Green Lady. Her place of haunting is Bedchamber 8 and she usually appears when it is occupied by a solitary male.

In the recent past a petrified guest burst into the castle’s public rooms late at night, sweating, trembling and hysterical. He awoke he said, to find the Green lady kneeling on his chest with her hands tightly clasped around his neck. He insisted on checking out of the castle immediately and subsequently sold his story to the News of the World where it appeared on the front page!

Glamis Castle, childhood home of the late Queen Mother and one of the most beautiful castles in Scotland was described to me by a Scot as ‘really weird’. Its phantoms are many and legendary and include Janet Douglas, wife of the 6th Lord Glamis. Running foul of King James V, she was accused of witchcraft. After a lengthy incarceration in a pit in Edinburgh Castle, she was burned alive on Castle Hill. To this day her spirit haunts the chapel at Glamis; the sun shining right through her transparent figure as she kneels praying in one of the chapel pews.

The crypt in Glamis Castle was for me a particularly eerie place. With its 10 foot thick walls, suits of armour, animal trophies and low barrel-vaulted stone ceiling it is straight out of the Middle Ages and an apt setting for a haunting. In a secret chamber within its walls, the Lord of Glamis and the Earl of Crawford, known as Earle Beardie are said to have played cards with the devil. 300 years after the infamous card game the chamber was sealed but the spectre of Earl Beardie continues to appear.

For those skeptics who believe that disembodied heads floating in mid-air, headless horsemen and drummers, phantom pipers and ghosts are merely a figment of the imagination, read those oft quoted words of the bard William Shakespeare,

 "There are more things in Heaven and on Earth than you have ever
  dreamed of in your philosophy”……

From Anne, “World Travel with Anne”

“A RAFTING TRIP ON THE MARTHA BRAE; A SPECIAL JAMAICA EXPERIENCE”


Clambering aboard a 10-metre long raft fashioned from bamboo, Nicole Boulanger and I settled on a seat for two on a raised platform. Our craft was a Jamaican style gondola; our 'gondolier', a cheery Captain Sewell positioned on the front of the raft wielding a four-metre long pole. Dressed in a floppy shirt and shorts, with a gap-toothed grin, our gallant man Sewell was an eloquent guide.

Sensing my interest in the environment as we floated in a haze of tranquility down the river, Sewell pulled over to the river bank. “See that little plant, touch it and something strange will happen”. I did, and its delicate leaves folded immediately. “It's a sensitive plant” claimed Sewell. “We call it ‘Shy Lady’”.

Puzzled about the black birds hovering overhead, Sewell explained. “They’re turkey buzzards. We call them Jancrow”. The birds were named for the Revd. John Crow who, when he preached a sermon leaned on his pulpit in a voluminous black gown, looking for all the world like a Jancrow spreading its wings to dry in the morning.

A loud creaking in a thicket of bamboo brought another snippet of enlightenment. “Hear that bamboo swaying in the wind. They grow up to three inches in 24 hours.”

Our tranquil reverie was soon to be disturbed. Was that a Bob Marley wannebe catching up on us? The familiar notes of ‘One Love’ floated on the breeze as two of our companions, Joe and Sophy, drifted around the bend on another raft captained by a Jamaican with Rastafarian locks tucked tightly into a bulging hat. Captain Murphy, head back and in full voice, was entertaining our friends with his repertoire of ballads composed by the greatest reggae singer of all time.

Goats, like curious children attracted by the song, flocked to the river’s edge to watch us go by. Surprisingly the animals seemed undeterred by a fire with flames leaping 10-metres into the brush beside us. Huge plumes of smoke billowed across the river. The heat swirled around us scattering ash on our clothes and hair. With its onslaught, trees and grass crackled, curled and blackened as we watched.

Seeking to alleviate an outbreak of fire phobia, Sewell reassured us with Jamaica's favourite saying. “ No problem mon. Burning is good here. We do it every year. It helps the grass grow.”

After an hour or so of poleing, Captain Sewell settled at our feet, opened a plastic bag tucked under our seat and proceeded to carve an intricate design on a calabash gourd. His work was beautifully executed with no more than a pocket knife.

Upon completion, he thumped his delicate-looking artwork against the raft's bamboo poles, showing me that it would be quite safe to take home in my suitcase. “Just stuff it with your underwear,” he said.

A daylight rafting trip on the Martha Brae is a special Jamaica experience, but for a truly magical encounter, an evening trip to the mouth of this mysterious river is guaranteed to take your breath away.

The Luminous Lagoon is one of only four places in the world where in its brakish waters millions of phosphorescent microbes are stirred to life by the movement of the tides, filling the dark surface with twinkling light. A swim in the Luminous Lagoon - and this is encouraged - could be likened to bathing in a sea of stars.


From Anne, “World Travel with Anne

DUBLIN NAMED UNESCO CITY OF LITERATURE


Dublin has been designated a city of literature by the cultural arm of the United Nations, UNESCO, making it just the fourth city in the world to receive this award!

“The city of Dublin attracts visitors from around the world for its heritage attractions, cosmopolitan feel and friendliness,” says Jayne Shackleford, Manager of Tourism Ireland in Canada. “Tourism Ireland is delighted that Dublin is now formally recognized for its rich literary culture and can now join Edinburgh, Iowa City and Melbourne as a recipient of this permanent title.”

This accolade recognises Dublin’s diverse cultural profile and international standing as a city of past and present literary excellence, with such literary greats as Oscar Wilde (his image in the above photograph), Shaw, Swift and Joyce, and contemporary writers Colm Tóibin, Roddy Doyle and Anne Enright to name a few. It also serves as confirmation of Ireland’s standing as a creative, vibrant and dynamic nation. To celebrate, the city has launched an official website – www.dublincityofliterature.ie – to showcase all of the exciting literary events, attractions and heritage available to visitors in Dublin and other towns and cities throughout the island.

Must-see events and attractions include the Dublin Book Festival (March), the month-long One City, One Book festival (April), the Dublin Writers Festival (June), Bloomsweek (June) and the Ulster Bank Dublin Theatre Festival (September). Book lovers can also enjoy the same ambiance as their favourite author or character at one of Dublin’s many literary pubs. For the full listing of festival and events throughout the island of Ireland visit www.discoverireland.com/festivals.

OXFORD’S HISTORIC MARKET
Centuries ago in the University city of Oxford in England, the farmers and townsfolk bought and sold their produce on the city’s cobbled streets and in its alleyways. Market days were chaotic. The pungent smell of unrefrigerated meat and over-ripe food mixed with animal and human odors, floated like an evil-smelling cloud over grand and ancient college buildings.

Today in Oxford's historic market now housed in a sprawling 18th century building, the plum contract for butchers is to supply the University with meat. The dons (professors) and their often illustrious guests; kings and presidents, oil sheiks and authors, wine and dine in a style unfamiliar to the ordinary man. The custom of these grand colleges cannot help but improve the cash flow.

With its eccentric ambience the market is an artist’s paradise. Students hone their sketching skills as they sit on rough cardboard in front of butcher’s shops deftly wielding pencils and pastels to produce startling likenesses to their sometimes macabre models.

The market’s sheltered passages attract buskers, drawn to the warmth and bustle like bees to honey. Over the hum created by busy shoppers one can hear the sounds of the sun-washed Mediterranean as a swarthy youth, probably an Italian language student plucks delicately at the strings of a mandolin.

Muted but persistent in the background is the bizarre music of that weird Australian wind instrument, the didgeridoo, blown with much huffing and puffing by a boy squatting Aborigine-style on a blanket.

The salty tang of seaweed and fishing vessels waft across your path as you draw level with the fishmonger’s stall. Lying on a bed of crushed ice a glassy-eyed shark peers malevolently at the shoppers. For sale too are soft pink squid, salmon fresh from the rivers of Scotland and prawns and crayfish from the coastal waters of Britain.

There are flower shops, cheese stalls, Belgian chocolatiers, French croissanteries, English bakeries, speciality tea shops, knitwear shops selling traditional Guernseys and Aran sweaters, secondhand bookshops and an Italian pasta shop where an untiring pasta machine churns out miles of delicious spaghetti.

The variety of products in the market reflect not only the cosmopolitan tastes of the British, but those of the constantly changing European tourist population that passes through the city year-round.

Oxford’s market has all the elements of an unforgettable experience. It is ‘Olde England’ at its most charming.  To Canadians and Americans used to pristine grocery outlets it may appear slightly unhygienic.  Congested, ancient and vulgar it may be, but it is truly fascinating and a stimulation to all one’s senses; sight, taste, sound and smell.

With its sawdust-covered floors and its cheery butchers wearing striped aprons and straw boaters, who would not be charmed by a warm “What catches your fancy today luv?” as you pass.

From Anne, "World Travel with Anne"

EXPLORE A LAND OF CASTLES AND KINGS – THE LOIRE VALLEY - FRANCE


The Loire Valley in France is known as 'the garden of France' and 'the country of a thousand castles'. On a recent seven day visit I wondered through a glorious land of vineyards and flowers and explored at least eight of its 1,000 castles. Of those, I found the Chateau de Chambord to be the most spectacular.

A mere 2 hour train ride from Paris, the chateau is situated in the centre of a 54 square kilometre forest. Enclosed within a 32 kilometre-long wall erected in the 16th century, the forest was once the hunting preserve of Francois 1. Still a wildlife refuge, its hunting rights are one of the perks of the presiding French President.

For 25 years 1800 skilled artisans laboured on the building of the young French king's hunting lodge. This massive structure, France's second largest castle after Versailles, is crowned with a roof likened to the skyline of an Oriental city. Its upper terrace comprises an astounding array of lanterns, chimneys, cupolas, minarets and towers. During Francois' reign it was customary for ladies of the Court to gather on the terrace to watch the return of the hunt and for the King and his courtiers to enjoy spectacular events, many of them devised by Leonardo da Vinci.

One of Chambord's most famous attractions is a double-helix staircase attributed to the Italian artist/architect. After studying his design sketches, its present caretakers are of the opinion that Leonardo was likely responsible for the staircase's unique design. Built around a circular central core lit by an opening at its apex, the stairway is such that climbers ascending do not come in contact with those descending.

Although the origins of Chambord are uncertain, it is thought that Leonardo may have had more input into the castle design that just the staircase. He was a close confidant of the king, so much so that the king had an underground tunnel built from Amboise Castle to the artist's home so that he could visit for conversation with his mentor at any time of the day or night.

For further information on the Loire Valley and its castles visit www.canada@franceguide.com.


Anne, “World Travel with Anne”

HARRODS; IT'S MAGIC

Harrods in London is, without a doubt, one of the world's most famous department stores. Its name is recognised from New York to Tokyo, in Eastern bazaars and French boutiques.

This famous London landmark, third only after St. Paul's Cathedral and Big Ben in popularity with tourists, is a shopping extravaganza covering 330 separate departments. In its elegant surroundings you can arrange for the monogramming of all your linen, buy a wedding trousseau fit for a princess, or clothe yourself in haute couture to dazzle the finest in London.

In spite of its aura of wealth and glamour, Harrods' famous Food Halls are used by many Londoners living in the vicinity of Knightsbridge as a 'corner' store. Not only are the staples available in varieties unimagined by most, but gourmet luxuries such as Beluga caviar abound. For those with a passion for chocolate, indulge in a sweet moment at the 'Chocolate Bar' on the second floor where melted chocolate sipped through a straw facilitates the ultimate sugary fix.

Harrods specializes in providing culinary delicacies for its customers, but it also puts on great entertainment.

As I browsed in what must be the most opulent grocery emporium in the world, an elegant quartet dressed in black tuxedos and playing violins serenaded shoppers with well-loved classical melodies. And then, when the lilting strains of a Strauss waltz floated across the vast Hall, an Australian visitor, overcome by the music and the moment, grasped his teenage daughter around the waist and whirled her in a dizzy one two three, one two three, around the food counters. The staff looked on in astonishment.

Another musical event takes place daily in the store. A contingent of Scottish pipers, magnificently dressed in kilts of Harrod's own specially designed tartan, complete with sporrans, black jackets with gold trim and tall black bearskin hats, march through the store playing the wild music of the Scots. Mr. Al Fayed, the Egyptian Chairman of Harrods, is a great admirer of the Scots.

Is there ever a dull moment in this magnificent place? There is not. On a normal day Harrods can expect in the region of 300,000 visitors. But there is a time when the pace becomes even more frenetic. Twice a year, soon after Christmans and again in the summer months, Britain's most momentous sales take place. The events are advertised worldwide and as an additional crowd-puller there is always a celebrity to declare the sale officially open. Among the celebrities in years past have been America's Burt Reynolds and Charlton Heston, Britain's Roger Moore, famous for his James Bond roles, Australia's wickedly outrageous Dame Edna and Sarah Michelle Gellar of “Buffy the Vampire Slayer” fame.

Eager shoppers start queuing the night before, bringing their sleeping bags and picnic hampers with wine, to while away the dark hours.

As opening time approaches staff members stand on the ready awaiting the signal that will start a flood of humanity through every one of Harrod's eleven entrances.

From then on close to 5,000 staff with 500 extra taken on for the sale, work with little respite until closing time at 6 pm.

The takings for the first sale day alone can be near the $9 million mark. With all those customers and all those parcels is it any wonder that the familiar green and gold shopping bag of Harrods has been seen in such places as the Serengeti Game Reserve in Africa and on the slopes of Mount Everest. It is extimated that 12 million of these bags leave the store each year.

Harrod's security guards are under special pressure on sale days. With close to 350,000 shoppers more intent on finding a bargain than looking after their money, all their ingenuity is needed to prevent a field day for the pick-pockets.

There are also the occasional flarings of temper when two customers, one on each end of a strained ballgown, are determined to get their own way. The timely mediation of a tactful security guard has on a number of occasions reminded the ladies of 'British Good Manners'.

Where there is money in quantity there is sure to be a 'con man'. At one of the sales an ingenious thief managed to get hold of a cash register identical to those used by Harrods. It was placed on a trolley and wheeled into the store where he mingled with the other temporary staff.

With 300 extra tills in use during the sale who was to know that he was there, not on behalf of Harrods, but intent upon his own enrichment. Before long he was directed to a busy department where he presented his fake I.D., set up his register, and started taking in money. When his till was full it was loaded onto a trolley and the cool-headed thief made for the exit. Thanks to Harrod's security guards, he and his cash register were apprehended in the nick of time.


From Anne, "World Travel with Anne"